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Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on earth. Every evening at dusk it performs the same ritual it has performed for centuries: seven priests on Dashashwamedh Ghat, brass lamps, fire, incense, conch shells, and a crowd of thousands who come because they have always come and will always come. The ceremony lasts approximately 45 minutes. It is one of the most visceral, disorienting, genuinely moving things you can witness in India.
Almost everyone watches it wrong.
Standing in the crowd on the ghats, you see one priest, partially. You hear the music and smell the incense and feel the press of people around you, which is itself an experience — but you do not see the ceremony. From a private boat on the Ganges, positioned thirty metres out, you see all seven priests simultaneously. The flames reflect in the water in front of you. The entire width of the ghats is visible — the temples, the cremation smoke further north, the city rising behind everything. It is the same ceremony seen from the correct angle.
We put you on the water thirty minutes before the ceremony begins. By the time the priests light the first lamp, you are positioned and still.
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